A Guide to the Garden District
Recently a friend asked for a New Orleans to-do list. I'd spent the month of April there, living in the Lower Garden District, spending my days writing a novel in coffeeshops on Magazine Street, my nights doing NOLA nightlife my own way. Every weekend was given to one of the many music fests the city hosts during April--French Quarter Fest, Crawfest, Riverfest, and of course JazzFest (the only non-free one).
It was a near perfect-ten month. A lot of people think the French Quarter IS New Orleans, but here's ten reasons not to neglect the less touristy and very memorable Garden District.
Well-Known Stuff
1) The Camellia Grill (626 South Carrollton) is "about as New Orleans as it gets," according my NOLA-native friend. It's a throwback-era counter service diner with the best burgers in town, plus giant omelettes, freezes, and pecan pie.
2) Commander's Palace (1403 Washington Avenue), also very NOLA, is a southern gentry upscale restaurant. First built in 1880, its kitchens famously employed Emeril Lagasse and Paul Prudhomme. Semi-formal attire.
3) I spent an afternoon sitting on the porch of the Columns Hotel (3811 Saint Charles), drinking down wine and reminiscences with a grad school friend. Between the massive columns, people read books and and otherwise dallied the day away at this St. Charles mansion.
4) Most days I would walk down Magazine Street, which has a hipster vibe and was apparently rated the #1 coolest city in the nation a few years back. I concur. Drink your coffee at Rue de la Course (3121) or Mojo Coffee (1500, they make a great choc-au-lait, half coffee & half chocolate), get boiled crawfish wrapped in newspaper at Big Fisherman Seafood (3301), drink your beer at Le Bon Temps Roulee (4801).
5) At any bar, order a Sazerac, the first ever cocktail and New Orleans original.
Underground/Less Well-Known Stuff (i.e., The Gems)
6) The first time I tried to find Domilise's Po-Boy's (5240 Annunciation Street) I wandered right past it because it doesn't look like a restaurant. But this is part of the charm. Multiple locals told me it has the best Po-Boys in town. I concur. Order "A large shrimp, dressed." $12 and worth every penny.
7) If you can walk in a Second Line, do it. My experience documented in Social Aid and Pleasure Club Second Line. 'Nuf said.
8) The Garden District Book Shop (2727 Prytania Street) is a fun place in the Rink, which is a cluster of artsy shops. Lots of NOLA-specific books. When you're there, say hi to Ted and Deb for me.
9) Wednesday at the Square happens weekly at 7:30 from March through May. It's kind of a mini jazz fest. The square's stage features a roster of very NOLA music, food and drink booths, and is crammed with lots of locals there to dig the music and socialize.
10) Comedy Open Mic at Carrollton Station (8140 Willow St), every Wednesday night, 9pm.
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